Friday, September 28, 2012

Los Angeles (Food) Really is a Melting Pot

Living in Southern California, a host of activities await weekend warriors. There's the beautiful ocean so close I can literally roll out of bed and in no time toe the sandy beach. Hiking enthusiasts have a plethora of trails to blaze. In winter, decent skiing is a mere hour and a half away.

Action adventure rules the hearts of many in Los Angeles. My thrills tend to be governed by my stomach. Mexican and Central American food is a favorite, which made Melting Pot Food Tours' "East LA Latin Spice" a perfect diversion last weekend.

Sisters Diane and Lisa Scalia started Melting Pot in 2008 to, well, melt together each of their loves of food and travel. Lisa, the website states, enjoys anything pastry and and herself is a seasoned sojourner, having wandered all around the United States and Europe. Diane, meanwhile, is a self-taught chef and the author of a cookbook, "Angel Food." Who better to discover tantalizing new tastes, thought I. The free ticket, thanks to my friend Caroline, helped, too.

Our group met at the Chinatown Gold Line Metro station at about 9 in the morning to embark on our culinary adventure, led by our guide Summer Davis. Now, next to food (and music and anything cultural, really) history is a beloved past time. So I was pleasantly surprised when immediately after making our introductions Summer regaled us with tales of Chinatown's beginnings around the time of the California Gold Rush. Right then and there, amid stories of the Chinese Massacre of 1971 and the fall and more recently the rise of local business, I knew I was in for a delicious treat.

From the corner of Alameda and College we walked south for a half block if that to the front door of the Homegirl Cafe and the headquarters of Homeboy Industries, the organization founded by Father Greg Boyle in 1988 to rehabilitate former gang members and teach them life and job skills. Inside, we were treated to fresh coffee and muffins as a the restaurant's assistant manager, a former gang member himself as well as convicted drug dealer, shared his personal story of redemption under the company's tutelage.

From there, we walked back across the street to the Gold Line and boarded for our next destination: the East 1st street location of Liliana's Tamales near Indiana Station. Two members of our group visiting from Australia had never eaten these tasty corn-based treats that is a staple of so many Angelenos, especially at Christmas. But at Liliana's, tamales (or the singular tamale pronounced "tamal," as Summer reminded us) are daily fare, as are the musicians wandering the dining room playing accordian and guitar while singing traditional Mexican songs. And, yes, our Aussie friends loved their tamales, which we explained to them usually come wrapped in corn husks or even banana leaves.

After chowing down, we walked across the street to El Mercado de Los Angeles, the three-story Mecca for all things Mexican: food, toys, clothes, etc. There, we sampled aguas frescas and Mexican sorbet. I went with the guava, or guayaba. The upstairs restaurant is enormous, easily seating about 500 people. As it was still only about 10:30 a.m. at this point, there were no patrons, just two musicians setting up for what would undoubtedly be a raucous afternoon and evening, especially once the tequila started flowing.

Next up was La Gloria Foods, maker of the famous tortillas. If you shop at Whole Foods, you've likely seen them on the shelves. As we sampled homemade guacamole (lo siento señoras pero la mía es mejor) and salsa verde, we watched two workers clean the machine that molds the circular tortillas and spied a vat of freshly ground corn meal. La Gloria Foods also sells a small sampling of authentic Mexican food condiments as well as corn husks for the aforementioned tamales.

The highlight of the tour was the next stop for some tasty goat, which would make my friend Stacey proud, as her sister is none other than Stephanie Izard, owner of Chicago's Girl and the Goat and perhaps better known as winner of season four of Bravo's "Top Chef." If you crave goat meat in Los Angeles, a visit to La Birrieria Jalisco is in order. Also located on 1st Street a half block from Mariachi Plaza, named for the musicians that congregate and play there (and used to live in the hotel across the street that is now listed on the historical register), La Birrieria was already packed when our group arrived at about 11:30 a.m. Awaiting us was a feast of goat meat, which tastes similar to its cousin lamb but slightly gamier. And, of course, agua fresca.

From there, we hit Un Solo Sol, which literally means "Only One Sun," a testament to the tenets of solidarity and community by owner Carlos Ortez. Melting Pot calls his restaurant the most "ethnically-electic" in Boyle Heights, and for that the Melting Pot considers Ortez one of its favorites. The menu consists of tradition favorites such as tamales, pupusas and tacos but also healthy Greek salads and Indian cholay. And Ortez prides himself in serving organic, locally grown ingredients while also featuring local artists on the dining room walls. The restaurant is also the same location as the original Homegirl Cafe.

After a brief stop at the nearby La Serenata de Garibaldi so our guide Summer could say hi to some friends (I was saddened to hear that the Santa Monica location closed down), our finale occurred at Primera Taza Coffee House, where we sipped on a tasty concoction of iced Mexican coffee and munched on freshly baked pan dulce. A perfect end to a wonderful morning and early afternoon.

I had visited Boyle Heights previously to attend art exhibits or a movie screening here or there but had never eaten in the area. Now knowing the lay of the land, thanks to Melting Pot and my buddy Caroline, I can't wait to return!

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